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Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin

Authors Bacqueville D, Maret A, Noizet M, Duprat L, Coutanceau C, Georgescu V, Bessou-Touya S, Duplan H

Received 24 October 2019

Accepted for publication 25 April 2020

Published 13 May 2020 Volume 2020:13 Pages 359—370


Checked for plagiarism Yes

Review by Single-blind

Peer reviewer comments 2

Editor who approved publication: Dr Jeffrey Weinberg

Daniel Bacqueville,1,* Anne Maret,2,* Maïté Noizet,1 Laure Duprat,1 Christine Coutanceau,3 Victor Georgescu,3 Sandrine Bessou-Touya,1 Hélène Duplan1

1Department of Pharmacology, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Toulouse, France; 2Clinical Skin Research Center, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Toulouse, France; 3Laboratoires Dermatologiques Avène, Lavaur, France

*These authors contributed equally to this work

Correspondence: Daniel Bacqueville
Department of Pharmacology, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Avenue Hubert Curien, BP 13562, 31035 Toulouse Cedex 1, France
Tel +33 5 34 50 64 27
Fax +33 5 34 50 34 24

Background: Skin aging is characterized by slacking and loss of density, especially under ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure.
Objective: To investigate the beneficial effects of a combination containing bakuchiol (BK) and vanilla tahitensis extract (VTE) to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin.
Materials and Methods: Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with active compounds, exposed to an acute dose of UVA and analyzed by confocal microscopy: actin network for morphology, interleukin-8 (IL-8) for inflammation and p16 for senescence. Human skin was used to evaluate chronic UVA-induced glycosaminoglycan (GAG) loss and to assess the benefit of topical application of a BK+VTE serum (Alcian blue staining). An open-label clinical trial was conducted in women applying the serum twice daily for 56 days (n=43). Skin remodeling was assessed by FaceScan®. Firmness was evaluated through Dynaskin® and clinical scoring. Skin radiance was also rated on standardized full-face photographs.
Results: UVA induced a significant increase in IL-8 and p16 expression and marked morphological changes in fibroblasts. Treatment with BK or VTE alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL-8 upregulation. Interestingly, BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL-8 and p16 overexpression. Serum application prevented GAG loss at the dermo-epidermal junction and increased dermal GAG in UVA-exposed skin explants. In the clinical trial, face ptosis was reduced by 11% on average for 26 responsive subjects and up to 23%. Depth of skin deformation was also reduced by 24% on average for 30 responsive subjects and up to 30%. This firming effect was confirmed by clinical scoring. Radiance was significantly improved by 29% on average for 33 responsive subjects. The serum demonstrated good tolerance/safety.
Conclusion: BK+VTE combination demonstrated anti-aging efficacy and might provide a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women, through their synergistic effect on inflammaging and senescence.

Keywords: anti-aging therapy, clinical trial, inflammaging, senescence, skin model

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